BHA vs. AHA: Which Exfoliant Is Right for Your Skin?
Chemical exfoliation has become a popular alternative to scrubs and beads for dealing with rough, dull-looking skin — but not all chemical exfoliants behave the same way. BHA and AHA are the two names that come up most often, and choosing between them (or finding a formula that leans on the gentler end of either) makes a real difference for anyone with reactive or easily irritated skin.
What an AHA Does
AHAs — alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic or lactic acid — work on the surface of the skin, helping to loosen the bonds between dull, built-up skin cells. They're water-soluble, which means they work mainly on the skin's surface, and they're often associated with a brighter, more even-looking complexion over time.
What a BHA Does
BHAs — beta hydroxy acids, most commonly salicylic acid — are oil-soluble, which lets them move into pores rather than sitting purely on the surface. This is part of why BHA is so often recommended for congested, oily-prone, or texturally rough skin. Betaine Salicylate is a salicylate ingredient used in exfoliating formulas, including our Heartleaf Peeling Pad. Its suitability and recommended frequency depend on the complete formula, product directions, and individual skin response.
How the Two Compare
Texture and Feel
Because BHA can move past surface buildup, it tends to suit rough, dull, or congested skin especially well, while AHA is often favored purely for surface brightness. A gentler BHA ester, like Betaine Salicylate, is often chosen to narrow that gap, though how it feels and how often it can be used depends on the complete formula and individual skin response.
Who Each One Tends to Suit
AHA tends to appeal to people focused on surface tone and brightness. BHA is generally reached for by anyone dealing with rough texture, dullness, or oily-prone, congested-feeling skin — and a gentler BHA ester may make chemical exfoliation more approachable for some sensitive skin types, depending on the complete formula and how their skin responds.
Where Heartleaf and Centella Fit In
Exfoliation alone can leave reactive skin feeling stripped if it isn't balanced with something soothing. That's where Houttuynia Cordata — known as heartleaf — and a Centella Asiatica complex (Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid) come in. Both are botanical extracts long used in Korean skincare specifically to help comfort the look of irritation, which is why they're so often paired with BHA rather than used on their own.
Building an Exfoliation Routine
A two-sided pad makes it easy to bring BHA into a routine without adding an extra step: our Heartleaf BHA Peeling Pad pairs Betaine Salicylate with heartleaf and Centella so the exfoliating side and the soothing side are built into the same swipe. From there, follow with a barrier-supporting moisturizer, like our Dual Barrier Cream, to help lock in comfort once exfoliation is done.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a BHA pad every day?
Follow the directions supplied with the specific product. If you are new to exfoliation or have reactive skin, begin less frequently, patch test first, and reduce use if dryness, stinging, or irritation occurs.
Is BHA safe for sensitive skin?
Sensitive skin tends to do better with a gentler BHA derivative rather than pure salicylic acid at higher strengths, especially when it's paired with soothing botanicals like heartleaf and Centella. A patch test is always a reasonable first step.
What's the difference between a peeling pad and a regular toner?
A regular toner is generally formulated to hydrate and prep the skin. A peeling pad, like this one, is built specifically to deliver an exfoliating ingredient in a controlled, pre-measured way — the textured side does the exfoliating work, while the softer side helps distribute the rest of the formula evenly.